Is organic and mineral sun care as safe to use as ‘generic’ sun protection?

Mineral sunscreen works by creating a physical barrier between your skin and the suns UV rays. Not only is it as effective as the sunscreens you will find on supermarket shelves but, because you will are physically protected against UVA, UVB and UVC rays, the level of protection in most cases is higher.

In comparison, ‘generic’ sunscreen works under the skin, typically using between two to six active synthetic ingredients, the most common being Oxybenzone and Octinoxate, which absorb UV rays and convert them into heat which is then dissipated out of the skin. In both instances your skin is protected from UVB rays. However, with synthetic sun protection before the chemicals can offer any UV protection your skin first has to absorb them which can cause irritation, reactions (like prickly heat) and extreme discomfort. 

So what is the issues with ‘generic’ sun protection?

While all sunscreens protect against UVB rays (the medium-wavelength rays that penetrate the top layers of our skin causing sunburn and skin damage) not all synthetic sunscreens protect against UVA rays (long-wavelength rays that penetrate deep into the skin). UVA rays are not only damaging to our skins-health, damaging the elastin and collagen fibres, but the World Health Organisation have stated that, along with UVB rays, they can cause the development of skin cancer along with causing permanent harm to our DNA and assisting in the development of free radicles.

Also, because synthetic sunscreen is absorbed into the skin before it can become effective, the chemicals used to achieve the sun protection factor can cause skin inflammation, irritations and rashes and can disrupt hormones in both men and women. In fact, in a 2019 study the Federal Food and Drug Administration proposed that only two sunscreen ingredients, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, could be classified as ‘safe and effective’ and that the four most popular synthetic sunscreen ingredients (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule) were easily absorbed into the skin and went into the bloodstream after one day of use and could be detected on the skin and in the blood weeks after no longer being used.

So what exactly are the ingredients used in ‘generic’ sunscreens and how do they effect our health?

Oxybenzone: Oxybenzone is one of the most popular sunscreen ingredients, protecting against UVB rays, however because the ingredient absorbs into the body in significant amounts and is often associated with allergic reactions and endocrine activity (the glands that make up our hormones) it has been proposed that the current human exposure levels are unsafe and the ingredient used should be restricted. Some countries have already banned Oxbenzone because it is harmful to coral reefs and aquatic life.

Octinoxate: A common ingredient in sunscreen, Ocinoxate has been shown to have a hormone-mimicking effect when tested in laboratories, effecting the metabolic system and thyroid hormone production and, staying in the body for long periods, has even been found in mothers breast milk. Octionxate is also banned in some countries due to its harmful effect on aquatic life.

Homosalate: Homosalate has been less studied then Oxybenzone and Octionaxate however it is known to penetrate the skin, disrupt hormones and produce toxic breakdown byproducts when used over time.

Octisalate: A readily absorbed ingredient used in synthetic sunscreen, Octisalate is linked to allergic contact dermatitis and has been found to effect the estrogen receptors found inside cells.

Octocrylene: Causing relatively high rates of skin allergies, Octocrylene is also often contaminated with benzophenone, a known carcinogen considered to increase the risk of some cancers.

Avobenzone: Widely used in sunscreens that protect against UVA rays, Avobenzone is an unstable ingredient that legally must be used with stabilisers to prevent it from breaking down in the sun. A disruptor of the endocrine system, it has been found to block the effects of testosterone in the body and, a skin irritant. It can cause allergic reactions.

How does mineral sunscreen differ?

Mineral protection uses non-nano minerals - zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide - which sit on top of the skins surface creating a protective ‘shield’ over the skin. 

Although Titanium dioxide is classified as a possible human carcinogen, in a non-nano form, these ingredients are never absorbed into the skin and instead work as a ‘shield’ to instantly reflect the sun’s rays before they can penetrate the skin’s surface, so you can enjoy the sun immediately after applying. To ensure safety when using these products look for a tube application as powdered or spray formulations can be easily inhaled.

Unfortunately some brands now combine mineral protection with synthetic chemical enhancers to boost the SPF while labelling and marketing the product as ‘mineral protection’, however a certified natural or organic sun protection product, such as those from ORGANii. lavera, Weleda and eco cosmetics, will be formulated with natural SPF boosting ingredients such as avocado oil, coconut oil, almond oil, karanja oil and carrot seed oil to reach the desired factor. Some brands who use synthetic enhancers can also still claim to be organic as the word is not regulated for use on skincare products the same way that it is strictly regulated for food, so if you’re not sure, look for a natural or organic certification label from an independent certifier on the packaging as your assurance that the product has been thoroughly vetted to ensure no misleading claims have been made.

So, not only are mineral SPF’s just as safe in the sun, but they are safer for our bodies too!